LadyJane Has Left La Paz

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It's been almost two weeks now since I left La Paz. I flew out of La Paz on Volaris on November 10th, crossed the border on the Greyhound shuttle, and spent the first night in San Diego. My bags were outrageously overpacked as it was so I was very careful with my shopping excursion along the San Diego waterfront and SeaPort Village.
Leaving San Diego via Amtrak's Pacific Surfliner train I found was quite a nice way to travel though it got dark too early--or the train left too late, for maximum viewing of the Pacific ocean along the way. We traveled to Santa Barbara where we were met by an Amtrak bus which took us on to Emeryville, Ca. There I once again boarded an Amtrak train, the California Zephyr, for the 2 day journey to Ottumwa, Iowa. Having a Superliner Roomette was wonderful. My own room, an enormous picture window with incredible views, two comfortable seats which made into a very comfortable bed and all meals and lots of extras included.

All told 4 days from La Paz to Fairfield.

I am very happy to be back in Iowa though I do miss my friends and my life in La Paz. And I shall return!! My life has been immeasurable enriched by the time and experiences I have shared in Mexico. My horizons have exploded. My interests and passions multiplied. So many people have become so very dear to me in the past two and a half years. As have so many doggie pals. I carry you in my heart. And my memories.

To those I left behind: Hasta luego. I will see you when I see you.
Same for those here and elsewhere.

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Watercolorist Wannabe? Just a try.

Yesterday Anne invited me to try my hand at watercolor painting. Not something I had ever tried before. But I have certainly admired so many of the local artists here in La Paz. So I gave it a shot. The upper photo is my rendition of Venice. No, those are not FAT BUGS in the lower center of the painting.

And this second painting is my rendition, copied vaguely from the next photo down in this blog, is a calata or a skeletal figure used during the Dia de Muertos celebrations. I had such a wonderful time doing these that I may have to try again when I get back to Iowa. Something to fill the long winter hours to come.

Dia de Los Muertos Celebration

November 1 and 2 are very important dates on the calendar for the Mexican people. Those two days the people celebrate Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead. Mexicans gather together around family altars at home or the cemetary to honor their deceased loved ones. November 1st traditionally is to honor the dead children and November 2nd is to honor the dead adults.

The altars are decorated with photos, candles, flowers and food and beverages that were special to those now being honored. In spirit the food and beverages are consumed by the deceased loved ones who have returned to visit. After the deceased have had their fill the living will consume the remains.

At the Teatro de La Ciudad there were two nights of this celebration. We were witness to many of these family altars as well as traditional Mexican dancing, theatrical performances, music, wonderful food and the joyous celebration of the Mexican people.

Dia de Los Muertos ( Day of the Dead )

This was pretty much the first image one saw when entering the Teatro courtyard where the Celebration for the Dia de Los Muertos was held on November 1 and 2. An artistically displayed grouping of 60-70 lifesized (or maybe they were real?) skulls greeted visitors.

The altars were of such a wonderful variety! These men pictured looked like Mexican desperados to me. But maybe they were someone's family too. Even desperados have mothers and fathers. But if the skeletons overhead are any indication they were most likely heros of the Revolution of 1910.

Note the abundance of skulls on the table. Skulls, skeletons, coffins, and all manner of the macabre are seen.

Shown here is one of the special candies that are made for this celebration---sugar skulls!! Yummmmm. . . .

More of Dia de Los Muertos 2009

There were quite a number of family altars to view at this function at the Teatro de la Ciudad. Centered in the altar are photos of the deceased. Surrounding the photos are decorations of flowers, candles, offerings of the departed's most favorite foods and beverages. Specialty bread, Pan de Los Muertos, ( bread of the Dead) is a common feature.


This was a favorite of mine. It is a panga filled with the traditional needs and desires of local fishermen. The traditional foods, lots of cerveza (beer) as well as the paraphenalia of the working boats, the lines, and nets and anchors, etc. Pangas are the boats that the Mexican fishermen most often use to earn their living. These are not at all the fancy sport fishing boats common to the gringos who visit La Paz, but are the work vehicle for the fishermen. This panga was dedicated to ALL deceased fishermen.

One of the delicious features of this evening was the traditional Oaxacan tamales. They are flat tamales wrapped in banana leaves. Ron is enjoying his first Oaxacan tamale of the evening here.

Here are a couple of desperados !!

Catrinas--Live in La Paz

One of the highlights of my visit to Teatro de la Ciudad ( City Theatre ) was the catrinas. The living catrinas.

Actually, I am not at all sure if that is how these ladies are to be referred. But I haven't found another name for them.

To be found in many Mexican stores are skeletal figures which are dressed in fancy clothing, or tradional work clothing, ( I personally have a pirate and his lady dressed in green ), or even animals such as dogs and horses. They are all part of the Dia de Los Muertos and are called 'catrinas'.

For lack of any other more appropriate
term I refer to the living representations of these 'catrinas' as 'catrinas'. It is also possible that 'catrinas' only refers to the females dressed in such a manner.

Sometime after dark probably a dozen or so of these 'catrinas' made their way through the crowds, posing frequently for photos and later a contest for the best 'catrina'.

I never heard them utter a word but the expressions were priceless. I was in danger of becoming a stalker, most likely, in my bid to take as many photos of these creatures as possible.

Such fun, for everyone!!

All to honor the Dead, of course!

Captain Ron and the M/V Argo

My adventures in La Paz and Baja would never have come about had it not been for Captain Ron Miller. A Captain with over 40 years of experience Ron has made my time in Baja more than I could have ever imagined. Ron has lived aboard Argo for 17 years and shared Argo with me twice for 18 of the last 30 months. Despite my friends wondering why I would want to go back aboard Argo when she has 'tried to kill' me 'twice', I can only say that no matter what the circumstances, I knew Ron could handle any emergency. And he proved that during two instances that I felt were most definitely life threatening emergencies. His knowledge and skill prevented potentially devastating outcomes. During our 77 days in the Sea of Cortez in the summer of 2007 we experienced engine failure and started drifting toward very dangerous rocks. Ron kept Argo from going aground on those treacherous shores and we were rescued by Jim (Sun Hunter) and towed to Santa Rosalia and later back to La Paz, over 25o miles.
This past summer we had a blown water exchanger that allowed approximately 1500 gallons of salt water from the Sea of Cortez to enter the engine room. The water destroyed or damaged the engine, transmission as well as all the electronics for Argo. Water filled the bilges and started filling the v-berth. I had visions of sinking and either drowning in the Sea or being eaten by the shark I got a quick glimpse of when this emergency came about. But instead of Argo sinking, Ron was able to stop the inflow of water, obtain emergency assistance and pumps from Sea-tacean and a tow back to La Paz by a passing sport fishing boat.

I cannot imagine what would have happened with someone not possessing Ron's deep knowledge and understanding of boats and motors and all things to do with cruising in the Sea of Cortez.

Argo's Saloon

The upper photo shows the saloon, yeah, SALOON, as in old west bars, saloon. The photo is looking from the galley aft to Ron's stateroom. On the right is shown the dining room table, work table, computer table, crosswork puzzle work area, or whatever is needed for a work space. There is a doorway on each side. The left side has a nice comfortable chair sitting almost under the air conditioner. Attached to the ceiling are a number of rods and reels as well as a really wicked looking gaff.

The lower photo is the saloon looking forward from Ron's stateroom entrance. The table and seats is to the left and the comfortable chair would be on the right. In the photo you can see part of the v-berth which is down 3 steps and on the other side of the galley and forward head. On this level you can see the large windows overlooking the marina. To the right is the lower helm and navigation station. The radio which is never turned off sits above here. When cruising we don't use this helm much, preferring to be at the helm on the flybridge--up top. To the left in the photo is seen a nice little bookcase/bar area. There is also a Sirius radio and a TV which I have never seen turned on. The large bottle seen on the floor is a garafon which is what we use for our drinking water--5 gallon bottles of purified water. Almost hidden by the table is a squareish metal box which is our ice maker. No plumbing required. We manually fill it with water every 3 or 4 days and it continuously makes half sized ice cubes. Wonderful.

In the second photo the floor area that is relatively clear is actually the 2 hatches that cover the engine room below. Together they cover a space of about 4x5 feet.

Argo's Galley

If you would take Argo's interior and divide it into 3 almost equal sections, the forward most 1/3 would include the v-berth, the forward head (bathroom) and the galley, or kitchen. The galley is almost entirely Ron's domain, though I do fix my own breakfast (yogurt before yoga, oatmeal afterwards) and lunch (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches). Then Ron works his magic and produces gourmet meals each evening. Using a microwave, a convection oven, crockpot, George Foreman grill and large electric skillet he creates meals that I have devoured with such an appetite that I am constantly in need of larger clothes. No kidding -- unfortuneately.

Ron does all the important cooking, but I do help--I do the cleaning up!

Welcome to the V-Berth

Welcome to the v-berth which is 'my' room. The v-berth is the area of the boat just under the bow and is indeed in the shape of a V. This room originally held 4 bunks but Ron removed the upper one on the starboard side and I am so glad that he did. I can raise up without worrying about hitting my head. The two bunks on port side hold all my 'stuff'. The upper berth is holding my painting of 'Las Casitas Bonitas' by Frank Hills as well as my shower bag and a small rolling suitcase that holds mostly my journal and other paperwork. The lower berth holds all kinds of odds and ends. My suitcase doubles as a large drawer. I have a tray table that holds tea bags, vitamins and supplements, etc. The halogen light over the bed gets hours of workout every day/night. It's an excellent place to read. I also have a closet or hanging locker that holds mostly my shirts. I have two areas of 'bookshelf' in my room. One next to my pillows on the lower portside bunk and a smaller one that hangs from the mahogany slats on the starboard side. Under each lower bunk is also cabinets where we store canned goods, paper supplies, my tennies, extra engine oil, etc. etc. There is no wasted space on a boat.

The floor space in this room measures about 4 feet from the doorway to where the two lower berths meet and is about 3 feet wide at the doorway--not much space to have to keep clean!

Argo on a Clear Day

The past weekend was glorious and lucky cruisers all over the La Paz area headed out to sea. We didn't go but having boats out opened up slips and allowed me to have a better shot at taking photos--and I took a bunch!! Not unusual. This is a shot of Argo in her home slip 321 at the Marina de La Paz. Argo is a 50 foot boat, or trawler. The bimini is an awning which usually covers the flybridge but is still down and will remain so until the threat of a hurricane is over for the season-soon. We use the ladder on the dock to get to the door. The dinghy sits atop Ron's stateroom. The cockpit is in the far back. The flybridge is the area on the top of the boat. The bow, or most forward area shown sits above the galley, or kitchen, and the forward head, or bathroom as well as the v-berth which is 'my' room.

Anastasia

Last Friday evening Ron and I went to 'The Art Shop' where our friend Frank Hills had the opening of an exhibit of his watercolors along with two other artists, Mario Fonseca and at Solem. What an incredible exhibit of incredible talent!
Also at the exhibit was my friend Anastasia shown at the right next to one of Frank's paintings. Anastasia has been in La Paz for almost 2 months now. She is originally is from St. Petersberg, Russia and is on her own to see the world!! She has a lot of courage and determination for someone of her tender age of 22. She is much admired by the cruising community who have come to know and care about her. She really is a very fine young woman! You go Girl!!

Sunset in Paradise, also known as La Paz

One of the benefits of living in La Paz, or Paradise as so many cruisers call it, is the beautiful sunsets that happen so very frequently. This shot was taken not long after Hurricane Rick dodged La Paz and brought only a good downpour of rain.

Casitas Bonitas ( Pretty Little Houses)

Crowned by the unique cactus frame, "Casitas Bonitas" by La Paz watercolorist Frank Hills is a jewel of serene color and peaceful pastoral theme. Is it any wonder I wished to transport this beauty to peaceful, pastoral Iowa? So much more than any item I have collected in my time here in Baja, this wonderful painting reveals what Baja California Sur means to me. And that despite my time here mostly being spent on the waters of the Bahia de La Paz and the Sea of Cortez. Outside La Paz, and not so far away, this scene from San Antonio is not at all difficult to find.

Tulipanes con Luna Llena ( Tulips with Full Moon)

Our La Paz community is home to some wonderful artists of all persuasions. Some of theses artists are full time residents, or maybe residents except for the summer months. Can't blame them there. And some of these artists are transcient. Some have fascinating gallerias to browse. Some have the occasional art exhibit and some exhibit out of their campers or along the Malecon. This piece I picked up from the husband of one of our yoga practicioners. Rudi Vander. It is a scene from his childhood in Amsterdam.

Hallelujah! We had RAIN!

I've waited 4 1/2 months to see rain on our bow here in Marina de La Paz and we got about 15 minutes worth today! Granted that's not a lot, and granted La Paz also got a downpour at the beginning of Hurricane Jimena last month, but I wasn't here to experience it. But I got a front row seat today and even caught the rainbow over Vista Coral.

September 16th, Mexican Independence Day AND My Birthday

September 16th, or Diez y Seis de Septiembre, is a true Mexican holiday. Independence Day actually. It celebrates the beginning of the overthrow of the Spanish government in Mexico. On the morning of September 16, 1810 in the city of Dolores in the Mexican state of Guanajuato, Father Miguel Hidalgo summoned his followers and called upon his people to seek independence from the oppressive Spanish rulers. Father Hidalgo and other leaders of the revolution were captured and beheaded within a year, but with the persistance of the dedicated, in 10 years Mexico had won their Independence from Spain. It started with a shout of 'Mexicanos, Viva Mexico!' which is remembered on this day.
Frequently to be found along the parade route, the Malecon, were vendors of various flavors. This man had Mexican flags, while others had Mexican ornaments, doo-dads, and stuffed figures, others were selling hats. But the most popular were the vendors selling fresh fruit and other Mexican foodstuffs all meant to entice the hungry appetites!

There were many military groups being represented in the parade. I don't know what official group these senoritas were involved in but they were quite a precision team when it came to marching.

There was a strong military presence at the parade. This presence could be witnessed along the parade route, both as part of the parade, but also always on guard along the parade route. Even a few police dogs were involved and of course they held the lion's share of my interest. There was a number of flyovers, also, of military planes and helicopters. They put on quite a show.

After all the military groups and bands had passed we at last came to the more colorful part of the parade. There were lovely senoritas in colorful costumes as well as many handsome horses being held in check by dashing caballeros! Gorgeous!

And what's a celebration without some good 'eats'? I started with this vendor for a delicious cup of fresh fruit including papaya, oranges, coconut, pineapple, cantaloupe, watermellon, and even cucumber! This was followed by an exquisito hotdog with the works, iced fruit punch and later a double scoop of chocolate ice cream!!

This young lady was still good to go but I had had enough fun for one day. The temperature was just short of 100 and the humidity made for a heat index of about 110 degrees. I went back to Argo for a good nap!

All in all, it surely was good of Mexico to help me celebrate my birthday with such a terrific parade! Viva Mexico!

Aftermath of Heat Stroke and 9-9-09

Tuesday I thought I might start a little walking routine here. Just down the Malecon next to the Bay of La Paz. A little breeze made it seem not so hot. I had my camera along. Taking photos I thought I'd just go to the statue of the mermaid with the dolphins. When I got there I decided that wasn't bad so I'd walk on to the statue of the fisherman, then it was the statue of the manta ray. Then I decided that my friends, Anne and George, had a house not far away and I would go have a little rest and get some water. It was almost 100 degrees and I had only taken an 8 oz. bottle of water with me. Stupid.

Anne and George weren't home. Of course. I took a photo of their front door NOT opening to welcome me to rest and refreshment. They had not known I was coming. I had not known I was going that far.

It really hit me on the return trip. I bought a 12 oz. bottle of water at a kid's park near their house. After that it was too much effort to make the walk across the wide street to get to the tiendas selling water on that side. I stayed on the bayside without vendors. Stupid. Stupid!

I made it back to the boat. My face was beet red. I had tunnel vision. I was so dizzy that I kind of fell through the doorway. Heat stroke. I made it to my bunk and more or less passed out for about 3 hours. When I woke I had the worst headache I had ever had, I was too dizzy to stand without holding onto things. And standing was agony due to the blisters on my heels. Back of my heels. Under my heels. Alongside my heels. On my toes. I hadn't felt them earlier but I surely did feel them when I woke. And it felt like the bones in both feet were pulverized! Stupid. Stupid. Stupid!

Lots of double strength Gatoraid, Advil, 9 baby aspirin, and a 12 hour night's sleep and I am in pretty good shape for the shape I'm in. Except for the unopened watery blisters on both feet. I couldn't do yoga. Could barely walk to the shower to wash the nasty ol' sweat off of me.

But I won't do it again. 6.2 miles or 10 kilometers. In the heat of the day. Heat index approximately 105 degrees. No hat and sandals instead of walking shoes. What was I thinking? Obviously I wasn't.

Anyway, here I sit today. The Internet has been down much of the day. Apparently a religious fanatic hijacked an airplane here in Mexico and officials shut Internet and Cellphone usage off. Didn't want him collaborating with anyone I guess. Turned out to be a guy with a juice can with a few small lights claiming he had a bomb. Made the pilot circle Mexico City 7 times. Said 9-9-09 was 666 upside down. Warned of earthquakes. They arrested 3 other guys when he told authorities he had accomplices. Later he let them know the REAL accomplices, according to him, were God, Jesus, and the Holy Ghost! And for that all of Mexico and it's business was put on hold for much of the day. I kid you not.

La Paz-Dodging the Hurricane Jimena Bullet

While on vacation to Minnesota there was excitement popping up in the Pacific in the form of Hurricane Jimena. When I returned from vacation but was still in Fairfield, Iowa Ron emailed me that a large storm was brewing and likely headed for Baja. The next several days I was glued to the Internet checking on Jimena's progress. It was headed for La Paz as a Catagory 4 with the possibility of Cat 5 and I started wondering whether I would have a marina home with Ron to return to.
We, or La Paz, turned out to have escaped with some torrential rainfall but little else. North of us, Constitution, Loreto, Mulege, Santa Rosalia and other towns and villages sustained major damage as did the San Carlos/Guaymas areas on the mainland. Thousands of people have lost their homes. Thousands more have damaged properties and losses of indescribable degree. Power was lost. Roadways and bridges swept away either by massive flooding or the winds that were clocked above 150 mph.
I came home to Argo and Ron with only some standing water in the flood plain bearing witness of the wrath that was Jimena in La Paz. Would be that all of Baja had been so fortunate.

Aug 22 Fairfield to Bloomington, Minnesota

We started out about 8:30 Saturday morning for our family vacation to Minnesota's North Shore Drive in the northeastern part of Minnesota, with a short escape to Canada. So passports in hand, along with all our other necessities, off we went. I had arrived in Iowa 2 days earlier from hot, hot, hot and dry La Paz, BCS, Mx. and surprised Mom at the breakfast table. She had no idea I was going to show up for the trip, or for anything else, until the first part of November. But as I wasn't doing much on Argo since our near sinking, I decided to partake of the family vacation to Minnesota. Along with Mom was Sue and Eddie. ( sister and bro-in-law ). We have traveled together before and had a wonderful time. No reason to think this would be anything but another wonderful family vacation. This is our preferred way to have lunch. We carry the fixings for lunch for several days and stop wherever looks good to enjoy them. Breakfast we usually have as part of the charge at motels where we stay. And for supper we find a nicer place to eat and end the day.

In the Mall of America we found a place to eat at 'Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.' Absolutely delicious stuffed trout with crab and shrimp filling. We were just fine after that, but then we had two, 2, two, desserts, Chocolate Chip Cookie sundae, and the Mud Pie! We were seriously overloaded with sugar after that and simply went back to the motel to digest, not a quick process certainly.

Aug 23 Bloomington to Duluth

We started this day, Sunday, at the IKEA store in Bloomington. What an experience that was. We maneuvered through the obstacle course of the store and emerged a couple hours later with just a few minor purchases. After all, there are 4 of us in a Toyota Camry. Already loaded with a week's worth of picnic supplies, 'can't do withouts' and clothing. We'll have to keep the 'buying bug' in check. In Pine City we visited the North West Company Fur Post. We got a glance of the history of the fur traders from the 1700-1800's. Here Mom is modeling a fine skunk neck wrap. Most of the trapping of course was of beaver, but there was also mink and fox and wolf and bear among others. Even this skunk. We saw recreations of the trappers homes at the fort and the Indians of the area in their birch bark lodgings. We were also fortunate to hear and see how the local wild rice is harvested and processed. All very informative and interesting.

One of the most fun and outrageous places we found on our travels was near Mora. This was the 'Crazy Ladies House' boutique. There were a couple dozen stuffed cloth 'ladies' strewn about the property, some hanging onto trees, sitting in a window box, rocking in a chair on the roof, riding a bike down the dirt path, residing near the beauty shop, the hat shop, the tavern, the Tiny Tittie Federal Bank and even a couple loitering about the outhouse. How hysterical!! What a positively Red Hat sort of place to see! We loved it!! Well, maybe not Eddie, but he tolerated it for our sakes.

This was a 22 foot tall Dala Horse standing in a park in Mora, Mn. Dala horses are a national symbol of Sweden and this area of Minnesota is inhabited by a large number of Swedes. The Richmond family has a Swedish background itself so I was pleased to see this.

Actually Sue had a little help with this pizza. It was one of two 16 inch pizzas we ordered at Sammy's Pizza in downtown Duluth. Great pizza at a great price, with our $2 coupons anyway. We enjoyed it this night and had leftovers the next night.

Aug 24 Duluth

We started our day down at the waterfront. We watched as one of Duluth's city symbols, the Aerial Lift Bridge, was raised and lowed to accomodate a large tanker to pass. We walked around the Maritime Visitors Center area. We watched sea gulls, and tourists riding bicycle based 'surrey's with fringe on top', we watched a draw bridge open to allow a boat underneath. We boarded the Vista Fleet Cruise boat for a 1 1/2 hour tour of the Duluth harbor and surrounding area. We got a good basic understanding of the mining and shipping trades in Duluth. During the cruise we were able to watch as limestone was loaded onto an enormous ( almost 1000 ft ) ship to be taken across the Lakes. Fascinating.
Lunch followed at Grandma's Sports Garden. During the meal we were witness to the setting up of a stage and lights for a musical event by the group, "Saliva". How appetizing! Not!

Coming from a railroad background it was natural that we wanted to take a little trip on the North Shore Scenic Railroad out of Duluth. More than anything I think it brought back memories of taking trips from Hannibal to Eola, Ill. about 50 years ago.

In the evening we went to the Omnimax Theatre to see 'Mysteries of the Great Lakes'. I don't think they have made an IMAX film yet that I didn't thoroughly enjoy. Great entertainment and great teaching tool. Went back to the motel for leftover Sammy's pizza.

Aug 25 Duluth to Silver Bay

In Duluth we went to visit the Great Lakes Aquarium with the Special Secrets of the SeaHorse exhibit before leaving to head north. Most of the Aquarium featured fish and animals native to the Minnesota area but I have to admit that the SeaHorses were my favorites. Gooseberry Falls was a beautiful area to visit - to sit and relax for awhile. There was a short walk to get to the falls but it was certainly worth it.

This is Split Rock Lighthouse near Two Harbors. We got a 45 minute tour of the facilities here which focused on the history of the lighthouse and support buildings which originated in 1909-1910. We were able to climb to the top of the lighthouse as well as hearing a loud sample of the foghorn used during bad weather.

Aug 26 Silver Bay, Mn to Thunder Bay, Ont. Canada

This was CutFace Creek Rest Area. We stopped on our way up to Canada and took many lovely photos of the scenery. Each of us came away with a favorite small rock or two from Lake Superior here as well. On the trip south we stopped again for a picnic lunch. Definitely a favorite site on our trip.

In Grand Marais we doubled back after spotting this sign by the side of the road. Mom and I got Fern and Maple Leaf ornaments here. Extremely nice people running this little shop.

In Grand Marais I happened to spy a black sailboat with 3 black sails out on Lake Superior. In our quest to see it better we happened onto Artist's Point. Beautiful rocky coastline here. We had to traipse through gooseberries to get to it.

One of our favorite stops was Grand Portage National Monument just a few miles south of the Canadian border. An old fur trading post had been recreated with an Ojibway Indian encampment just outside. The guides wore period costumes and really brought the history of the fur trade and rendevous' to life. Excellent! We had an especially great description of how a birch bark canoe was built from an historian at this site.