Tuesday, November 24, 2009

LadyJane Has Left La Paz



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It's been almost two weeks now since I left La Paz. I flew out of La Paz on Volaris on November 10th, crossed the border on the Greyhound shuttle, and spent the first night in San Diego. My bags were outrageously overpacked as it was so I was very careful with my shopping excursion along the San Diego waterfront and SeaPort Village.
Leaving San Diego via Amtrak's Pacific Surfliner train I found was quite a nice way to travel though it got dark too early--or the train left too late, for maximum viewing of the Pacific ocean along the way. We traveled to Santa Barbara where we were met by an Amtrak bus which took us on to Emeryville, Ca. There I once again boarded an Amtrak train, the California Zephyr, for the 2 day journey to Ottumwa, Iowa. Having a Superliner Roomette was wonderful. My own room, an enormous picture window with incredible views, two comfortable seats which made into a very comfortable bed and all meals and lots of extras included.

All told 4 days from La Paz to Fairfield.

I am very happy to be back in Iowa though I do miss my friends and my life in La Paz. And I shall return!! My life has been immeasurable enriched by the time and experiences I have shared in Mexico. My horizons have exploded. My interests and passions multiplied. So many people have become so very dear to me in the past two and a half years. As have so many doggie pals. I carry you in my heart. And my memories.

To those I left behind: Hasta luego. I will see you when I see you.
Same for those here and elsewhere.

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Friday, November 6, 2009

Watercolorist Wannabe? Just a try.


Yesterday Anne invited me to try my hand at watercolor painting. Not something I had ever tried before. But I have certainly admired so many of the local artists here in La Paz. So I gave it a shot. The upper photo is my rendition of Venice. No, those are not FAT BUGS in the lower center of the painting.

And this second painting is my rendition, copied vaguely from the next photo down in this blog, is a calata or a skeletal figure used during the Dia de Muertos celebrations. I had such a wonderful time doing these that I may have to try again when I get back to Iowa. Something to fill the long winter hours to come.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Dia de Los Muertos Celebration


November 1 and 2 are very important dates on the calendar for the Mexican people. Those two days the people celebrate Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead. Mexicans gather together around family altars at home or the cemetary to honor their deceased loved ones. November 1st traditionally is to honor the dead children and November 2nd is to honor the dead adults.
The altars are decorated with photos, candles, flowers and food and beverages that were special to those now being honored. In spirit the food and beverages are consumed by the deceased loved ones who have returned to visit. After the deceased have had their fill the living will consume the remains.
At the Teatro de La Ciudad there were two nights of this celebration. We were witness to many of these family altars as well as traditional Mexican dancing, theatrical performances, music, wonderful food and the joyous celebration of the Mexican people.

Dia de Los Muertos ( Day of the Dead )

This was pretty much the first image one saw when entering the Teatro courtyard where the Celebration for the Dia de Los Muertos was held on November 1 and 2. An artistically displayed grouping of 60-70 lifesized (or maybe they were real?) skulls greeted visitors.
The altars were of such a wonderful variety! These men pictured looked like Mexican desperados to me. But maybe they were someone's family too. Even desperados have mothers and fathers. But if the skeletons overhead are any indication they were most likely heros of the Revolution of 1910.

Note the abundance of skulls on the table. Skulls, skeletons, coffins, and all manner of the macabre are seen.



Shown here is one of the special candies that are made for this celebration---sugar skulls!! Yummmmm. . . .

More of Dia de Los Muertos 2009



There were quite a number of family altars to view at this function at the Teatro de la Ciudad. Centered in the altar are photos of the deceased. Surrounding the photos are decorations of flowers, candles, offerings of the departed's most favorite foods and beverages. Specialty bread, Pan de Los Muertos, ( bread of the Dead) is a common feature.


This was a favorite of mine. It is a panga filled with the traditional needs and desires of local fishermen. The traditional foods, lots of cerveza (beer) as well as the paraphenalia of the working boats, the lines, and nets and anchors, etc. Pangas are the boats that the Mexican fishermen most often use to earn their living. These are not at all the fancy sport fishing boats common to the gringos who visit La Paz, but are the work vehicle for the fishermen. This panga was dedicated to ALL deceased fishermen.

One of the delicious features of this evening was the traditional Oaxacan tamales. They are flat tamales wrapped in banana leaves. Ron is enjoying his first Oaxacan tamale of the evening here.








Here are a couple of desperados !!

Catrinas--Live in La Paz


One of the highlights of my visit to Teatro de la Ciudad ( City Theatre ) was the catrinas. The living catrinas.
Actually, I am not at all sure if that is how these ladies are to be referred. But I haven't found another name for them.
To be found in many Mexican stores are skeletal figures which are dressed in fancy clothing, or tradional work clothing, ( I personally have a pirate and his lady dressed in green ), or even animals such as dogs and horses. They are all part of the Dia de Los Muertos and are called 'catrinas'.
For lack of any other more appropriate
term I refer to the living representations of these 'catrinas' as 'catrinas'. It is also possible that 'catrinas' only refers to the females dressed in such a manner.


Sometime after dark probably a dozen or so of these 'catrinas' made their way through the crowds, posing frequently for photos and later a contest for the best 'catrina'.



I never heard them utter a word but the expressions were priceless. I was in danger of becoming a stalker, most likely, in my bid to take as many photos of these creatures as possible.





Such fun, for everyone!!

All to honor the Dead, of course!